KILLA BHAWAN

Camel and Jeep Safaris, large and luxurious communal shower, folk music and dance performances, enticing Killa Boutique, excellent sunset views from its terraces, special local meals on order, sightseeing tours accompanied by local guides.

The interiors have a warm blend of crimson and orange hues sported in its Indian antiques and royal walls, silk drapes, rich cushions and embroidered bedcovers. There is a Honeymoon room with a canopy bed, the King's amber room in the curve of the bastion with a wonderful window seat and the Queen's fuschia Room with its pretty inner terrace - are sheer beauties. The feel is very much of a private home, with carved sideboards and chests, local metalwork lights, coloured glass lanterns and owner Luca's wedding photos dotted around.

Don't be fooled by the size of the kitchen. The food served is homely and lip-smacking. The roof-top eatery is the best bet - magnificient sunsets, desert strains, a little bustling city - all create a peerless ambiance. You can also order from the nearby reaturants, Surya and Little Tibet, famed for their north Indian vegetarian or meat curries and rice, Chinese dishes, pasta and pizza. Little Tibet's Momos are legendary.